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Everything posted by fowlmouth
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Anyone else been watching this series? This is a bold statement, but I have to say it's my favorite SW series yet (I know this is not a light statement, as Mando is incredible). Excellent character development going on in this series. Very cinematic presentation. Top shelf acting. It also helps that I'm a little biased, as Rogue One is one of my favorite SW movies. Also, big nod to the design of droid B2EMO. Trying to work out a way in my head to build one with servos and RC. About the production of the series, it's definitely the Star Wars universe. But there are strong vibes of Blade Runner and Logan's Run to my eyes. Loving it. Going to catch Episode 10 right now.
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Request your member certificate here!
fowlmouth replied to Chewy's topic in New Member Introductions
If this is still going on I’d love one, thank you! Jason Scherff SL-71329 Approved: 11-3-2022 -
Boba Fett - Mandalorian S2 aka Boba Fresh - WIP
fowlmouth replied to Swiftcloud's topic in Costume Building
Looks freakin incredible, Jarred!! -
Also, completely random, I stumbled on an old pic of my first Vader costume. Thought it would be fun to show off Mk1 vs Mk2 vs the current Mk3. 2015.....2021.....2022
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Welp, my fellow Garrison mates, it is official. This Rogue One Vader has been approved!!! Can't wait to troop with you! ?
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While I patiently await for approval, I've been continuing the little tweaks. Based on recommendation from fellow SLD members, I added velcro to the belt and cod to eliminate the gap that occurs over time while wearing (visible in my approval pics). I also wanted to make sure I had enough battery life for a potentially lengthy suit up. I set up all electronic gear, and let it rip to burn it down while using all rechargeable batteries. After five hours of continual run time everything was still blazing. Very happy! Can't wait to break this costume in on Halloween in one week! I also just ordered some dark red plexiglass, and some computer mesh that I plan to paint silver. The lenses I have now are reddish enough, but I really want to match the Robe One screen specific images as closely as possible. Also, I just think it would be fun to learn how to make my own lenses from scratch. Would like to match this look:
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Thanks, bro! That's the whole thing that got me started down this path in the first place, scratch building. In fact, the original state of that lighted box, as you see it at the beginning of the post, is the first part that I built for my previous Vader costume. Really appreciate the kind words, Jarred. ?
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I had a random inspiration a little over a week ago to take my old hand made chest box and rework it into a "close-enough-for-government-work" version of the RO box. The reason? Because my original (and completely inaccurate) Franken-box has lights, including a sequenced LED set from Fettronics. I know many other ANH builds have done up a box with lights, keeping off for approval or LFL events, but turning on for fun. I'm choosing to do up a full second box because...why not?? You can never have enough parts lying around. Really, the motivation for this project is Halloween. With OWK having just released this summer, there will be just enough trick or treaters (and their parents) who will remember lights on the OWK Vader chest. Frankly I wished the RO Vader would have had them. But alas. Here you can see the old box on the left next to the screen accurate one on the right. It makes me chuckle how proud I was of building this from scratch a couple years ago, thinking it was soooo accurate, LOL. Notice all the inaccuracies, mostly a hodge podge of elements borrowed from the ROTJ, ROTS and ANH, and none of the hand made greeblies are quite right. Pulled it apart to rescue the electronics that will be used for the new improved box. Reworked the coin slots and toggles, all made of solid maple. The coin slots are much shorter than the proper ones, but I decided to salvage them and use them because I was too lazy to make completely new ones. Made the lights from plexiglass and leftover colored translucent plastic. The original top cover was a piece of ABS cut to size and screwed into place. Replaced it with a thin piece of plywood cut to size and glued. This was after I ripped an 1/8" off of each side. The original box was 1/4" too large in square. Once dried, I ran it through the table saw to add a two step bevel at 30 deg then 45 deg. ...then softened with an orbital sander. Then I took down the height of the box, originally 1.25" as you see it above, down to the correct 1". The most challenging part was figuring out how to make semi-accurate rods. Then I had a eureka moment...chopsticks and wall anchors. Laying it out loosely. Wood filler, sanding, and two coats of primer. Three coats of satin black, wet sanded between layers. Aluminum parts replicated with chrome paint. Proper battle scaring. Same 1" leather strapping. A final side by side just to give perspective, actual box on left, new improved Halloween box on the right. a And with the lights on... A keen eye will notice its just a hair larger than the official box, about 3.5 mm larger in fact. But I'd argue this is pretty negligible. Not like it matters since it won't be part of the approved suit, but I was making some small attempt to match the original as close as possible with minimal effort. LOL! A few Vaders over on the SLD think its actually accurate enough to pass for approval with the lights off. I'm not sure, but I plan to travel with both of these in the costume container just in case.
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Jarred, thank you so much! I sometimes feel like I overkill the progress, LOL. Looking forward to meeting the garrison and being part of the fun, fingers crossed!
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Had some fun with my favorite pose.
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Just sent in my email for approval review! Here's hoping my efforts pay off. ?
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Thanks, Nick! I'm looking forward to applying for approval soon!
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And finally, after more than a year of work we have a full suit up!
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First audio test. It's only one step of pitch shift, since my natural voice straddles the bass/baritone line. But I'm thinking of bringing the pitch down just one more step to add depth to the timbre.?? ??
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For those not tired of following along with this build, finally made some last stage finishing to the remaining parts. This is my awesome wife working out the hem on the robe and cape. Her detail work is amazing, if I can possibly remain unbiased. LOL Displayed in all of its completed glory...
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So many little things to continually tweak. I decided to return to the codpiece, as I kept ruminating on how inaccurate the first build was to the movie.????Just a reminder of what that cod looks like: ?? ?? The result above is a hybridized version of RO with some subdued characteristics that take away the overall diaper look. And I do like it. But it isn't accurate. Things that bother me: 1) The wrinkles nearly disappear when I wear this cod, due to the backward flexing of the foam innards when attaching the clasps under proper compression. I could fix this without making a new one by placing a rigid frame on the back. 2) The main part of the cod lacks a proper degree of puffiness, meaning not enough batting. 3) The center insert is too convex, this should be flatter. 4) The insert is too large, most notably regarding its width. 5) The left and right borders of the insert are incorrectly linear. Unlike all other variants of Vaders cod which have straight parallel borders on the left and right like this "||" the 4k screen captures all seem to show that the RO cod insert has a very slight elipse, more like this "()". 6) The insert ended up being almost flush with the main body of the cod, which is incorrect, as it should be inset slightly.?? ?? These are the images I used for reference: ?? ?? ?? ?? There are other screen shots available, but these are the best three images I could find to confirm all dimensions visible. The first image shows the cod with the insert slightly higher, while the second and third images show a slightly different cod with less puffiness (it's hard to confirm 100% due to pixilation, but I feel like it has less wrinkles). Also, I am just noticing that the buckle is slightly different on each, with the notorious tilt only exaggerated in the first image. I am highly convinced that there are two different cods here probably worn by both Daniel Naprous and Spencer Wilding respectively.??It would make sense that there would be two suits, since these guys have differing heights and builds, Naprous a stunt performer and Wilding a Kickboxer. And with the now known last minute effort to include Vader in the screenplay, it stands to reason that the prop makers didn't correlate details as well as they should have between the two suits. Ultimately I chose to find the middle ground between these two cods without loosing the overall aesthetic of the infamous diaper. ?? So on to the Space Diaper 2.0 build: ?? I essentially used many of the techniques that I devised in the first build. But having some empirical foresight helped me to plan ahead better, making for better cuts, and fitment. Also, one of the the things I didn't do with my first build was adhere all surfaces equally. So in addition to holding materials down with gaffers tape, this time I added a thin layer of 3M Super 77 adhesive spray to the backs of all surfaces that come in contact. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? Spraying the edges of the foam to accept the pull-over of the leather before taping down. ?? ?? ?? Cutting the strip that will become the piping.?? ?? ?? The underside of the piping fold was masked and sprayed with 77 before folding and finishing with tiny strips of gaffers tape.?? ?? Outer edge piping masked and sprayed before placing in the body of the cod. ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? Rigid ABS to resist flex in the center, which helps preserve the look of the wrinkles, adhered with craft glue before framing out with gaffers tape.?? ??
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Looks fantastic! So excited to see a Krenic build! Now I really can't wait to finish my RO Vader...???
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Really glad you found a kit! I was disappointed when you were unable to get the initial set delivered. I'm also strongly leaning toward a DT as a second build once my Vader is done, mainly to have options for troops...and because I love DTs. Any pics? Would love to see your set.??
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Just finished a proper belt hanging saber build. I wanted to replicate the OG saber as used for the actual Rogue One screen shots (for the??absolute few??frames??that it appears in). The story is that they found an old weathered saber hilt in a warehouse from the filming of ESB and used it as is, with its rusted and corroded condition some 36 years later. This is the actual prop from the movie: ?? This is my build: - Original unit: 2005 MR ESB Saber - Plug/socket: Authentic "prop accurate" from vintage Heiland 2-cell flash gun - Wires: Wannawanga, scuffed up - Bubble strip: Wannawanga, scuffed and slightly yellowed to??mimic??age and use - Thumb screw: Wannawanga, modified to replicate the colors and patina - Exactra clamp card: Slothfurnace, darker blue model to replicate aged circuitry - Flat acrylic paints for "rust" - Silver, gold, and bronze metallic Sharpies - Slotted round head screws for T-tracks, heads coated with black paint and partially scratched off??withy my fingernails - Side-set Allen head screw for clamp lever location?? - White conte style pencil for aged "gunk" - various tools for scratching and??chipping the numerous surfaces?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ?? ??
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Sorry to hear this, Bill. Keep at it. My armored Vader build is one year and thousands of dollars in with many parts revisions, and I'm only half done! You will get there.
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I am loving this build. The tufted terry cloth really does the job.???
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Wow, this is incredible! I also agree the warrior from BOB would be amazing. But the ANH Sand People are no less awesome. Nice work!
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Jerred, your words mean a lot, thanks! This project has been a blast at every step, and it is so satisfying to step back and look at each part once it's done. And believe me, I am excited to eventually show it off.?? Completed the electronics today!
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Jerred, thanks so much! I originally picked up the metal boxes and six knob set from Fenix, grabbed the lights from a couple different electronics vendors, and the screen is vintage prop accurate Telefunken mesh. The boxes didn't have belt pass through slots wide enough to fit the proper belt thickness.??So I ended up making the main part of the box out of poplar to fit below the Fenix box cover. It came out better than I expected, but the rear plate of the box makes it stick out past the rear of the belt a little too much for legitimate screen accuracy. ?? A fellow Vader on the SLD pointed out it would be easy peasy to open up those slots with a Dremel and some cutting discs. So I did just that, and finished the original Fenix boxes out yesterday. I am way happier with the results. Not only is the rear wall dimension more accurate, but I feel that I did a better job with the painting for the "battle damage".?? ?? I am currently going back and forth between two different types of screws for the box covers. ?? Unfortunately there are no good quality screen shots that I can find to determine the RO screws, but these are both really close to ANH. This image is from the RO Visual Guide hard cover book and size wise matches the second screw more IMO. The warmer stainless color can always be dry brushed if I want. ?? But yeah, after all that, LOL, ESB is a bit different in the details. I'm guessing you're more versed than I, but let me know if you need any help sourcing parts, I'm happy to help.??
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Boba Fett - Mandalorian S2 aka Boba Fresh - WIP
fowlmouth replied to Swiftcloud's topic in Costume Building
Looks amazing, Jerred! Excellent paint work. I love the operational range finder.???